The Suzuki Hayabusa… what more needs to be said? This motorcycle has earned a reputation like none other in the history of two wheels. After total dominance of the high performance factory motorcycles by Kawasaki for all those years from the early 70’s, clear through the late 90’s, nobody was expecting Suzuki to turn those tables. Nobody, but Suzuki. But now after ten years of major success, history has definitely been written in stone on this bike. The Hayabusa has settled in as the king of sport bikes, and quite comfortably for many years now. But, in the world we live in around here, we measure a motorcycle, a motorcycle engine more specifically , by how far we can push it. How much will it take? Power, torque, boost, big tires, big speed.
As you may have noticed over the years, we’ve set a few records around here. And, we’ve set many of them now with the “Busa”. And, we will most likely set a few more, along with our many customers who have done the same, because this engine has earned our trust in what we can do with it. The lower end is practically bullet proof. The crank is good for over 700 hp so far, stock rods are good to 350 hp, and the stock tranny has literally ran high six second passes in the an eleven inch tire Pro Mod bike. With forged pistons from the factory, good cams, and a very efficient head design, the top end has proved to be very reliable under extreme conditions as well.
Head chief, cook and bottle washer (aka Terry Kizer), coined the phrase a few years back, “That this bike has become the small block Chevy of the motorcycle world.” This is all too apparent when you understand how universal this engine has become. We’ve built engines and turbo systems for applications ranging from four-wheel dragsters, 500 hp ATV’s, SCCA Road Racing vehicles, tractor pull machines, to actual really fast motorcycles, all using this engine. There are so many after market parts available for it, there is almost nothing it can’t be used for when it comes to big power in a small package.
So, whether you’re just wanting to add some spice to your life with a bolt on turbo system for your street bike, or your hell bent on blasting to record breaking power levels for a racing application, we can put a package together to pull off your dream. Give us a call, we can help.
Stage I Classic
$3,995.00
200-270 hp
- T-3/T-4 Garrett Turbo
- Ceramic coated exhaust system
- Adjustable external wastegate
- High volume fuel pump
- Rising rate fuel regulator
- Silicon intake hoses
- Finished fuel and oil line assemblies
- All stainless fasteners and hardware
- Liquid-filled boost gauge
- Stage 1 Power Commander Map
System is complete, including detailed instructions with color photos.
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Stage I Elite
$4,995.00
200-270 hp
Stage I Classic components plus the following upgrades:
- Oil Cooler Kit
- Billet Intake Plenum
- Exhaust Port Block-off Plates
Stage II
$5,695.00
200-325 hp
Stage I components, plus:
- Upgraded T-3/T-4 Garrett turbo
- Tial wastegate and dump pipe
- Adjustable rising rate fuel press regulator
- High volume oil scavenge pump
- Stage 2 Power Commander Map
Stage III
$7,995.00
300-500+ hp
Stage I & II components, plus:
- Stage III 500+ hp turbo
- Upgraded Tial wastegate and dump pipe
- Tell-Tale (for boost gauge)
- Billet injector inserts
- Secondary fuel rail and injectors
- Secondary E.C.U.
- Multi-stage Boost Controller
- Stage III Power Commander Map
Requirements
Stage I systems can installed on a stock engine.
When running up to 8 lbs. of boost, it can be run on 92 octane pump gas, but Octane Booster is highly recommended. Race fuel, for turbo and/or supercharged applications (i.e. VP C16), is required for more than 8 lbs. of boost, drag racing, and Top Speed racing.
A Dynojet Power Commander III USB is required.
Kit Installation
Full System Installation for Stage I
$1,000
Top End
Billet Adjustable Cam Chain Tensioner: $94.95- 4, 6
Heavy Duty Cylinder Studs and Nuts: $154.90 - 3, 6
Cometic Heavy Duty Head Gasket: $79.95 - 4, 6
MTC Pistons (Turbo): $615.00 - 4, 6
Heavy Duty Valve Springs with Titanium Retainers: $529.90- 4, 6
Adjustable Cam Sprockets: $59.95- 7
Lower End
Billet Clutch Basket: $461.10- 3, 6
MTC Multi-Stage Loc-up: $925.00- 6
Two-Stage Loc-up: $420.00- 1, 3
Carrillo Rods: $1,350.00- 3, 6
Falicon Rods: $916.00- 3, 5
Ceramic Transmission Bearings: $495.00- 7
Under Cut Tranny: $600.00- 5
Fuel System
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator: $251.00 - 4, 6
Power Commander: $359.95- 2, 4, 6
Secondary Fuel Rail System: $695.00- 6
Oil System
High Volume Oil Pump - Small Frame: $289.00 - 3, 6
High Volume Oil Pump - Large Frame: $289.00 - 3, 6
Low Profile Billet Oil Pan: $595.00- 7
Boost & Wastegate
Mr Turbo Multi-Stage Boost Controller: $645.00 - 5
Turbosmart Boost Controller: $599.00 - 5
Tell-Tale: $79.95 - 7
Tial Wastegate: $364.00 - 6
Turbosmart Ultra-Gate 38 Wastegate: $299.00 - 6
Turbo
Dual Ceramic Ball Bearing Turbo Upgrade: $750.00- 7
Chassis & Accesories
Lowering Links (Adjustable): $144.95 - 7
Tiger-Tail (Inner Fender Eliminator): $139.95 - 7
Trac Dynamic Swingarm: $1,445.00-1,795.00 - 7
McIntosh Swingarm: $1,499.00-1,599.00 - 7
Air Shifter: $325.00 - 3, 5
Billet Air Shifter Brackets: $175.00 - 3, 5
Hoses
Stainless Braided Brake Lines: $56.95-174.95 - 7
Pipes
Full Tail Pipe (without muffler): $235.95- 7
Electrical
BTC 4-Coil Ignition Kill Box: $169.95 - 3, 5
MSD SB6: $581.50 - 7
MSD MC-4: $735.00 - 5
MSD Digital Shift Light: $244.00 - 7
Dynatek Shift Light: $69.99 - 7
Number Legend
1. Recommended for Stage 1
2. Required for Stage 1
3. Recommended for Stage 2
4. Required for Stage 2
5. Recommended for Stage 3
6. Required for Stage 3
7. Optional
- 0-8psi: 92-octane pump gasoline, octane booster recommended.
- 9+ psi: Race gasoline for turbo and/or supercharged applications (VP C16, etc…)
Race gas and octane booster are not required when driving the bike at normal speeds and when not applying boost. As you will learn, a turbo is only in boost when you twist your throttle telling it to do so. A turbo is not an uncontrollable device, and using common sense and throttle control will regulate how much and when boost is used.
Octane boosters can be deceptive. Be sure that the booster that you choose to use is acceptable for turbo or supercharged applications as many are not. In the past, we have used 104 Octane Booster. There are two versions of this product available; a red bottle that is intended for light duty street engines, and black bottle that is usable for turbocharged applications.
Does it come with an oil cooler?
Yes, with the Elite system.
Do you suggest a full tailpipe with the Stage II?
Both Stage I and II come with a banana (dump) pipe. A tailpipe that exits out the back of the fairing is an option. Any muffler can be adapted to fit this pipe.
Is the Stage I [Classic] just a more price friendly method to get into the turbo game so one has a taste, but the full deal is a bit more expensive?
The Stage I Classic is just that. It’s just the basic parts to get a reliable system running at a minimum price. The Stage I Classic & Elite allow for up to 10 lbs of boost, which is really the limit for the stock engine and fuel system. The Stage II & III add the necessary items needed for the progressing power levels.
If I start with the Stage I Elite, does Stage II piggy back all the components, or in the end, should one just “bite the bullet”, so to speak, and go all out?
The idea behind our Stage I Elite is that you can “upgrade” to the Stage II & III, so it’s really up to the individual budget.
With Stage II, what motor upgrades do you suggest?
Engine upgrades are simply based on the desired boost and horsepower levels. The stock engine is good for 10 lbs with no changes. The higher the power goes, the more upgrades to the engine are needed (i.e. valve springs, pistons, rods, etc.). Valve spring pressure is the first week link. The chain of weak link goes like this:
- Stock crank is good for over 700 hp, so no need for work there.
- Stock rods are good for up to 350 hp, so no need to upgrade those until you plan on 18 lbs of boost or more, or unless you plan on racing top speed runs with 300 hp or more.
- Stock pistons fall under the same rule as the stock rods (good for up to 350 hp).
- Stock cams are excellent.
- Stock transmission is practically bullet-proof. Under all out racing conditions, a billet output shaft is recommended.
- Stock valves are just fine.
With Stage II, can I use pump gas with octane booster, or should I stick to a Stage I Elite?
Pump gas is only good for 6 to 8 lbs of boost. Unless the system is intercooled, that’s all our pump gas (in the United States) is good for, and even then, a good octane booster should be used.
I would like to put nitrous on my bike as well. What comments do you have regarding a kit? Are there any special steps to this addition if I were to add it later? With a turbo, any extra parts necessary?
A wet NOS system is a must for reliability. Our turbo NOS system is a simple system that can be added to any turbo system at any point after installation. No extra parts are needed unless a progressive controller is desired.
Does an intercooler kit make any difference, at all, with the Stage I, or would it be mostly for the Stage II?
Intercooling is a great addition to any turbo system, but there’s simply no room on most motorcycles for a proper sized unit. Short of removing the head light and mounting one in that area, they are very difficult to utilize on a bike.
Is a Power Commander recommended?
A power commander has to be used with our system for proper mapping. Our systems come with mapping to load into your power commander, or we can sell you the power commander (with the system) with the mapping already installed.